Three new barbecue cookbooks have arrived in time for Memorial Day.

James Beard Award-winning author and grilling expert Steven Raichlen just released “Project Fire: Cutting-Edge Techniques and Sizzling Recipes from the Caveman’s Porterhouse to Salt Slab Brownie S’mores.”

The book is a step-by-step guide on how to master Raichlen’s seven steps to grilling nirvana: Choose your grill, select your fuel, assemble your tools, flavor your food, choose your grilling method and fire it up.

If it wasn’t for this book, I would remain clueless to the joys of leaf grilling.

The book is also a tummy-tempting collection of 100 recipes you never knew you wanted to try, from Bacon-Grilled Onion Rings and Black Pepper Baby Backs (with Whiskey Vanilla Glaze) to North African Lamb Kebabs (with harissa mayonnaise) and Tokyo favorite, Yakitori ( “grilled chicken”). You’ll find desserts in the back of the book (Mango Macadamia Crisp), along with a couple of cocktails (Grilled Sangria and Grilled Peach Bellinis).

This in-depth how-to is as indispensable to serious grillers as “The Barbecue Bible,” which Raichlen also wrote.

I may not be a serious griller, but I’d like to try this Bacon and Egg Quesadilla.

Bacon and Egg Quesadilla

• 2 (8-inch) flour tortillas

• 1 tablespoon melted butter, bacon fat or extra-virgin olive oil

• 3/4 cup coarsely grated cheddar, Monterey Jack or other cheese

• 1 large egg

• 2 strips bacon, grilled and slivered or crumbled, or 2 ounces smoked ham, cut crosswise into thin slivers

• 1 jalapeno or serrano pepper, thinly cut crosswise (optional)

• 1 scallion, finely chopped

• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro, optional

• Sour cream or salsa for serving, optional

Set up grill for direct grilling and heat to medium-high. Have one section of the grill fire-free.

Brush one tortilla with half the melted butter and place it, butter side down, on a rimless sheet pan or the back of a rimmed sheet pan. Sprinkle 2/3 cheese on top in a doughnut shape (more generously around the periphery), leaving a 3-inch space in the center for the egg. Crack egg into a ramekin, then carefully pour into the center of the quesadilla. Sprinkle the remaining cheese over it. Sprinkle bacon or ham slivers on top, followed by chili, scallion and cilantro.

Brush one side of the second tortilla with remaining butter and place it butter side up atop the quesadilla.

Brush or scrape the grill grate clean and oil it well. Position sheet pan with the quesadilla just above the grate. Tugging from one end, gently slide the quesadilla onto the grill grate. Close the grill lid. Grill until the bottom is browned and the cheese at the edge starts to melt, two to four minutes. Reduce the heat if the quesadilla starts to burn.

Slide a large spatula under the quesadilla and flip it over. Continue grilling until bottom is browned and cheese is melted, two to four minutes. Theoretically, the cheese will be melted and the egg will be cooked by the time the tortillas are browned. If not, slide the quesadilla over to the unlit part of the grill with a spatula. Close the grill lid and indirect grill until the cheese is melted and the egg is just set, a few minutes longer.

Transfer the quesadilla to a plate. Serve with sour cream and or salsa, if desired.

Makes one serving.

Clean off your favorite digging tool and get grilling over an open fire.

Salmon Steaks on a Shovel

• 4 thick salmon steaks, each 6 to 8 ounces and 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches thick

• Extra-virgin olive oil for brushing and drizzling

• Coarse salt (sea or kosher) and cracked or freshly ground black pepper

• 2 scallions, trimmed, white parts finely minced, green parts thinly sliced on the diagonal and set aside for the sauce

• 1/4 cup chopped fresh dill

• 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh lemon zest (save ½ teaspoon lemon zest and 1 tablespoon lemon juice for sauce)

• Lemon Dill Coriander Sauce (recipe follows) or lemon wedges, optional

Build a wood campfire with a good base of glowing embers. Feed fresh logs to the fire from time to time to pump out plenty of wood smoke.

Working on a sheet pan, brush the salmon steaks on both sides with olive oil. Season very generously on both sides with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with minced scallion, dill and lemon zest, patting the flavorings into the fish with the flat of a fork. Just before grilling, drizzle a little more olive oil over the salmon.

Heat the shovel blade in the fire (it helps clean and sterilize the cooking surface and preheats the metal so it will sear the meat).

Arrange the salmon steaks on the shovel blade, leaving an inch between them. Lay the shovel on the embers. Grill until the salmon steaks are sizzling and browned on the outside and cooked to taste, three to four minutes per side.

Serve the salmon steaks right off the shovel with Lemon Dill Coriander Sauce (if using) on the side.

Makes four servings.

Lemon Dill Coriander Sauce

• 1/2 cup mayonnaise

• 1/2 cup sour cream (or mayonnaise)

• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill

• 2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallion greens (reserved from above recipe)

• 1/2 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest (reserved from above recipe)

• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander seed

• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice (reserved from above recipe)

• Coarse salt (sea or kosher) and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Combine ingredients in a mixing bowl and whisk to mix. Cover and refrigerate if not using immediately. Eat within a few hours or preparation.

“Korean BBQ” by Bill Kim with Chandra Ram is a great introduction to Korean-American grilling.

Who is Bill Kim? He was born in Korea and raised in the American midwest. He runs several popular restaurants in Chicago. So expect Kim’s unique fusion of Korean and American flavors in 80 accessible barbecue recipes in his book, which is subtitled “Master Your Grill in Seven Sauces.”

The sauces, along with spice rubs and pastes, are key to giving your grilled foods a Korean twist, like in this recipe for beef satay that calls for inexpensive flank steak.

Korean Beef Satay

• 1/2 cup Magic Paste, recipe follows

• 2 cup Korean BBQ Sauce, recipe follows

• 1 cup sliced green onions

• 1 piece (3 inches) lemongrass, minced

• 3 pounds beef flank steak, sliced against the grain into 6x1-inch pieces

• 12 (8-inch long) skewers

If using wooden skewers, soak them in water for at least 30 minutes.

Combine Magic Paste, barbecue sauce, green onions and lemon grass in a large, shallow dish and mix well. Add flank steak and turn the steak to coat evenly. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.

Heat grill for direct-heat cooking to medium, 350 degrees to 375 degrees.

Remove the flank steak from the marinade, reserving the marinade. Thread 2 pieces of meat lengthwise onto each skewer, weaving the point of the skewer through the top, middle and bottom of each piece, then pushing the pieces into an “S” shape, so they are touching.

Pour the reserved marinade into a small saucepan, bring to a boil on the stove or on the grill and boil for a couple of minutes. Pour into a small heatproof bowl and set aside to use as a dipping sauce.

Place the skewers on the grill and cook, turning them once, for about two minutes on each side, until lightly charred.

Transfer the satay to a serving platter and let rest for three minutes, then serve with the dipping sauce.

Makes six servings.

What I like about Kim’s book is you can either turn to page 44 for the following recipe, or just quickly open the back cover to the book, where it is reprinted, along with nine other essential recipes.

That’s a handy concept.

Magic Paste

• 1 piece (1 inch) fresh ginger, peeled and sliced

• 5 cloves garlic, peeled

• 2 tablespoons fennel seeds

• 1/2 cup fish sauce

• 1/4 cup toasted sesame oil

• 1/4 cup Korean chili flakes

Combine ginger, garlic and fennel seeds in a food processor and process until minced, periodically scraping down the sides of the bowl to make sure all the ginger gets chopped. Add the fish sauce, oil and chili flakes and process for 30 seconds.

Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to two weeks or freeze for up to two months.

Makes 1 cup.

Korean BBQ Sauce

• 1 cup dark brown sugar, firmly packed

• 1/2 cup water

• 1 cup soy sauce

• 1 small white onion, coarsely chopped

• 1 Asian pear, peeled and coarsely chopped

• 1 kiwi, peeled and coarsely chopped

• 8 cloves garlic, peeled

• 1 piece (1 inch) fresh ginger, peeled and sliced

• 1/4 cup toasted sesame oil

Combine brown sugar, water and soy sauce in a bowl and whisk until the sugar dissolves. Transfer mixture to a food processor. Add onion, pear, kiwi, garlic and ginger and process for about two minutes, until completely smooth. Add sesame oil and blend until fully combined.

Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to two weeks or freeze for up to two months.

Make 4 cups.

I’ve seen kamado grills given away on game shows and at the home improvement store, but I don’t know a single person who owns one.

Originally conceived in Japan as a clay cooking tool, the modern kamado grill is made of ceramic. Its shape and thick walls help hold in heat, allowing the grill to maintain a particular temperature for hours at a time.

Released just yesterday, “Go Kamado: More than 100 Recipes for your Ceramic Grill” by JJ Boston illuminates the cooking prowess of the egg-shaped grill and instructs how to grill, smoke, roast and bake a wide variety of recipes.

I’d share the recipe for Stuffed Alligator on page 34, but it’s very complicated. Let’s look at something a bit easier. No, not the Smoked Goat Bolognese, but a Texas-style smoked brisket.

This recipe makes a lot, so you might consider inviting friends over for a Memorial Day cookout.

Smoked Beef Brisket

• 1 1/4 cups sugar

• 2/3 cup ground black pepper

• 2/3 cup seasoned salt

• 2/3 cup kosher salt

• 2 1/2 tablespoons ground cayenne pepper

• 15-pound whole beef brisket, trimmed of fat

• Pickle slices, to serve (optional)

• Barbecue sauce, to serve (optional)

In a medium bowl, combine sugar, pepper, seasoned salt, kosher salt and cayenne. Rub brisket with the seasoning mixture. Wrap tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours.

Preheat grill to 225 degrees. Once hot, add wood chunks (post oak, hickory or mesquite), install heat deflector, place a drip pan on top and install a standard grate.

Remove brisket from refrigerator and allow to come to room temperature.

Place the brisket fat side up on the grate, close the lid and smoke until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees, about five to seven hours.

Remove brisket from the grill, wrap heavily in aluminum foil and return to the grill to continue to cook until the internal temperature reaches 185 degrees, about eight hours. (Test the texture of the meat for doneness throughout the cooking process. The total cook time is about 15 hours, or one hour per pound.)

Transfer brisket to a serving platter and let rest for 20 minutes. Slice or shred the meat, and serve with pickles slices and barbecue sauce, if desired.

Makes 38 servings.

Looking for a recipe? Have one you’d like to share? Write to Potluck, Times Record, P.O. Box 1359, Fort Smith, AR 72902. Email: jharshaw@swtimes.com.